Welcome to Colorado's Finest Kennels and Ranch.  Use the information in this section to prepare your home and family for life with your new puppy.  Before you bring your puppy home, be sure you have the following supplies:

Puppy Food
Premium pet food should be fed to get your new puppy off to a good start. We use Royal Canin
puppy food.  We will be giving you a sample pack to take home with you on the day you arrive to pick up
your puppy. If we are shipping the puppy to you, then a sample will be attached to the dog crate. Please follow the

charts on the back of the puppy food you have purchased for proper feeding amounts.

Supplements
NuVet Plus (multiple vitamin) and NuJoint Plus (joint aid). You can visit their web site at: www.nuvet.com or
call 800-474-7044 to learn more about these products, but you will need to use our order code # when
ordering, thank you!

Collar
We recommend a lightweight adjustable nylon collar. Please make sure you can always fit 2
fingers underneath the collar.

Leash
We recommend a 6 foot leash.  You'll want to get puppy use to walking on a leash as soon as possible,
however avoid public places like parks and hiking trails where other dogs walk until puppy is fully
vaccinated. After your pup has been vaccinated introduce your puppy to different environments. Have him
interact with a wide variety of family members, friends and even strangers. Take him for walks, rides in the
car, family outings such as picnics, little league games, etc... For your puppies safety and to be a
responsible pet owner, always obey the leash laws.

Retractable Leashes
These give your puppy a feeling of freedom.

Identification Tag
These attach to the collar. Information included is puppy's name, your name, address and phone number.
If puppy gets lost it will be at lot easier to find him. Your veterinarian's name and phone number is also a
good idea.  These can be purchased at most pet stores or veterinarian clinics.

Crate/Kennel
We recommend the hard plastic kennels such as Vari Kennel or Bargain Hound.  They make clean up
easy.  The crate should be ready when you bring home your new puppy.  We recommend  a crate for large
breeds (36"L.x24"W.x27"H.)  You may need to purchase two kennels...one that fits your pup now, and the
larger kennel as sized above when they reach adulthood. If you have shipped your puppy, you will receive
a smaller puppy crate.  A home and travel crate that's airline approved and will accommodate your puppy's
size for the first few weeks. It will also  serve as your puppy's new "den" at home, when traveling or riding to
the veterinarian's office. His scent in the crate will provide comfort and a sense of security during these
stressful times. As and alternative if you decide to use a metal crate with a metal bottom, we've heard
excellent feedback from the kennel with the divider panel that is moved as your puppy grows.  We do not
recommend any fancy bedding for inside the crate. We use shredded paper for the first couple of weeks
for ease of cleaning.  As your puppy grows accustomed to their kennel and develops the ability to sleep
through the night, you may consider changing his bedding to soft towels and pillows.

Reading Material:


Stain remover
For removal of accidental soiling. We highly recommend "Nature's Miracle Stain & Odor Remover". There is
nothing that works as well as this product, do not buy any imitations it will not work as well.  

Treats
Don't forget treats for training and rewarding your pup. You will need a few boxes.  Also, treats, boiled
chicken livers are "very" nutritious, inexpensive, and make a great "all natural" treat.  Bil_jac also makes a
great livers treat.  It comes in a little carton.


Toys
Puppies chew usually due to teething, boredom or stress. It should be discouraged immediately before it
develops into a problem. For teething we recommend a few chew toys like Durable Nylabones and Kong
toys. Kongs are highly recommended because you can also stuff the inside with Peanut Butter and freeze it
for hours of fun. Tossing and Retrieving toys, like tennis balls and disc's. As a rule if your puppy can fit the
whole toy in his mouth, the toy is too small and could be unsafe. No sponge toys or toys with squeakers,
whistles or other attached parts that can break off. No tug toys since they can cause aggressive behavior.
No shoes or clothing, because the puppy will not be able to distinguish which shoes or clothing are allowed
and which ones are not. No rawhides, pig ears, or toys with strings etc.. Inspect toys regularly.

Water Bowl/Food Bowl
We recommend stainless steel double bowls in a stand holder, so puppies can't knock them over.
Adjustable ones are a good choice, as your pup grows they can be raised. Wash bowls daily.

Grooming
Brushes and combs suited to your puppy's coat; we recommend buying a Slicker Brush, Pin Brush & a
Boar, Bristle Brush, Dematting Comb, Nail Clippers, Kwik Stop (kwik stop prevents nails from bleeding if cut
too short)., tearless puppy shampoo, toothbrush, paste, and ear cleaner.  We recommend getting puppy
use to being groomed as soon as possible, even if he/she doesn't need it. This way when he/she does
need it, he/she will be use to the brush.

Grooming Basics

Your dog's health and happiness are dependent upon a well cared for coat, ears, mouth and nails.

Show dogs and those with special grooming problems (severely matted hair, hard to groom ears and
infected gums, to name a few) need the attention and skills of a veterinarian or professional groomer. But
you easily can give your dog routine every-day care at home.

Regular brushing helps eliminate tangles and mats and helps your dog get accustomed to being handled.
It also gives you the opportunity to check for ticks and fleas, lesions, lumps and changes in his skin and
coat. Pet-supply stores and catalogs sell a wide array of brushes for different coats and conditions.

Slicker brushes have a bed of fine, closely spaced wires that usually are hooked or bent; they're good all-
purpose brushes for removing mats, loose hair and debris.

Pin brushes have a bed of widely spaced tines that look like straight pins. The tines sometimes are tipped
with plastic. Pin brushes are also good for removing tangles but can be uncomfortable for grooming short
haired dogs.

Bristle brushes and metal combs are used in the final grooming step for long haired dogs, leaving their hair
sleek, smooth and shiny. A bristle brush may be the only brush you'll need for a short haired dog.

Begin the brushing process with a slicker or pin brush to remove dead hair, debris and tangles. For breeds
with long and very thick coats, you should groom with both brushes, using the slicker brush first.

For tough tangles, gently comb or brush small sections at a time, giving yourself and your dog a break
every few minutes. Be careful not to tug at or tear the hair.

After the coat is smooth, give your dog a final brushing with a bristle brush (for short haired dogs) or a
comb (for long haired dogs). Give plenty of praise during the brushing process and reward your dog with a
treat when you're finished.

Bath time is much easier after a thorough brushing. Place your dog in a tub or a basin with a nonskid
surface. Hold your dog's collar firmly, then slowly pour several pitchers of lukewarm water over his body,
being careful to leave the head dry.

Soap your dog's body with a dog shampoo, then massage the soap into a lather, talking to your dog and
praising him as you work. When his body is lathered, move to his head, being careful to keep shampoo out
of his eyes, ears and mouth.

Rinse and dry your dog's head, then rinse his body. When the water runs clear, rinse one more time.

Thoroughly dry your dog with towels. If your dog has healthy skin, you can dry him further with a hair dryer
set on low or warm temperature.

Bathe smaller dogs such as bichons every two or three weeks, except in the winter when once a month
probably will do. Larger pets need bathing several times a year. Of course, always wash a pet when it is
dirty or smells, regardless of when it was last bathed.

Proper foot care will help prevent unnecessary pain and infection later on. Most dogs don't like to have
their feet handled, so go slowly, one paw at a time  Make foot handling a part of playtime.

Remove mats of hair from between the toes and pads of dogs with hairy feet; if ignored, the mats can
become as hard as rocks. Then, using scissors, trim the hair between the pads and between the toes so it
is level with the dog's foot.

Regular exercise on a hard surface may keep a dog's nails worn down. However, most domestic dogs will
need to have their nails clipped every few weeks. If your dog has dewclaws (the smaller claw on the back of
each leg, higher than the paws), those always will need clipping. If the nails or dewclaws are allowed to
grow, they may curl inward into the skin and cause a painful infection.

Use nail clippers designed specifically for dogs. One type, known as the guillotine style, has a round
opening for the dog's nail and a blade that slides across to clip the nail. Another type works like a pair of
scissors. This type puts less pressure on the nail and is more comfortable for the dog. Make sure the
blades are sharp.

Trim only the "hook" end of the nail. Clipping a nail to short can be painful and may cause bleeding.
Frequent trimming of a small amount of nail always is better than waiting until the nail is long. Never trim
into the quick -- the live portion of the nail.

Ear care generally is the easiest grooming task. Unless your dog has ear problems or spends time hunting
and swimming, ear cleaning needs to be done only every few weeks.

Clean the outermost area of your dog's ears with a cotton ball or cotton swab dampened with water or baby
oil. To clean further inside the ears and soften and remove wax, use an ear-cleaning solution.

Warm the bottle of solution between your palms, then squirt the prescribed amount into your dog's ear
canal. Gently massage the base of his ear. Remove any dirt or wax with a dry cotton ball.


Puppy proof your home
Confine your puppy to a safe area inside and keep doors and windows closed. He should be supervised at
all times. Keep puppy off balconies, upper porches, and high decks. You may want to purchase a baby/pet
gate. Remove potential hazards.

Keep breakable objects out of reach.

Deny access to electrical cords by hiding or covering them; make outlets safe with plastic outlet plugs.

Safely store household chemicals.

Keep the following house and garden plants out of reach: poinsettias, azaleas, rhododendrons, dumb
cane, Japanese yew, oleander and English ivy among others.

In the garage, be sure engine lubricants and other poisonous chemicals (especially antifreeze) are safely
stored.

If you own a pool or hot tub, check the cover or the surrounding fence to be sure they're in good condition.

If you provide your puppy with an outdoor kennel, place it in an area that provides sun and shelter in the
pen; be sure the kennel is large enough to comfortably accommodate your puppy's adult size.

This is a list of some of the potential hazards to your puppy, cleaning supplies, detergent, bleach, paint
and paint thinner,  antifreeze and chocolate.  Some common plants are aloe vera, amaryllis, apple (seeds),
avocado (fruit & pit), azalea,  baby's breath, bleeding hearts, caladium, carnation, cherry (seeds & wilting
leaves), chrysanthemum,  clematis, corn plant, daffodil, daphne, daisy, day lily, dieffenbachia (dumb cane),
English ivy, foxglove, geranium,  holly, hosta, hyacinth,  iris, ivy, jade, lily of the valley, macadamia nut,
marijuana, mistletoe, morning glory, narcissus, oleander, onion, peach (wilting leaves & pits),  
philodendron, plum (wilting leaves & seeds),  poinsettia, poison ivy. poison oak, potato, rhododendron,
rubber plant, tobacco, tomato plant (green fruit, stem & leaves), tulip, wandering jew, weeping fig, yew, and
yucca.


Scoopers
We recommend aluminum scoops with a spade for quick and easy clean up.  And maybe an empty paint
can, or small trash can, that you can carry around the yard to put the poop into. They also sell small septic
tanks for dog poop for $30, you can find them in the Foster and Smith catalog 1-800-826-7206 (order a
catalog they are free and have lots of neat stuff) or on line at: www.DrsFosterSmith.com . In the catalog
you can find puppy gates, exercise pens, chain link portable dog runs, and just about everything you can
think of! Another catalog we like to use is www.revivalanimal.com or 1-800-786-4751.


Crate Training your Pup
One of the most useful devices for housebreaking a puppy, and perhaps one of the most misunderstood,
is crate training your pup. Properly used, crate training can aid in housebreaking puppies. It can also be
used for your own puppies safety and to save your home from costly damages. People who raise, train,
and show dogs have been aware of the benefits of crates for years. Unfortunately, the new pet owner is
not as well-informed.

I Advise owners of the new puppies to concentrate on housetraining, socialization, and crate-training
during the early weeks of rearing.

Separation Reflux
For the first night or two don't be surprised if the puppy whimpers or cries at bedtime. Remember he has
just been taken from his mother and litter mates. When separated from their social group, most pups
whine, bark, or howl. These sounds are referred to as distress vocalization. In the wild, these sounds
increase the chances that a puppy will be reunited with his pack. The pups movement is restricted while it
is isolated, it will respond with escape behaviors such as digging, thrashing about, and chewing. These
behaviors have obvious benefits for survival.

RECOMMENDED PROCEDURE

The procedure we use and recommend for inhibiting the separation reflex is based upon several other
canine tendencies. These are the pup's preference to bed down with, or in the presence of, others; to bed
down in a sheltered, den-like atmosphere; and to learn through association. These procedures we
recommend as follows:

1. Acquire a collapsible dog crate. The crate should be large enough for the puppy to stand up in and
move around  in, (remember puppies grow quickly, so I recommend a large crate, with a divider or cut off
baby gate in it to make it seem smaller).

2. Well before bedtime introduce the pup to the crate by placing several treats (like puppy food) directly in
front of the door and inside the crate. Give a command word like "kennel" or "crate". Let the puppy walk in,
then back out of it, just to get him use to it at first. Then repeat this step again but this time close the door.

3. Leave the room, but remain just outside in order to audit the pup's behavior.

4. At the first indication of any separation responses, intervene with a sharply raised voice. The idea is that
the pup associate its behavior with the startling outcome the behavior produced. Some pups will not
respond to a raised voice. We have found that most respond well to sounds generated by a shaker can (a
small coffee can containing several coins).

5. Usually the pup settles quietly in the crate after three to eight attempts at emotional responses, if they
are followed by a startling sound. After the pup is quiet, keep him inside the crate for about ten minutes.
Then let the puppy out of the crate, pet and praise him. Take the puppy directly outside to eliminate, bring
the pup to the same spot each time. Give him a command word "potty", "go pee-pee" something to that
effect. After he has gone to the bathroom, pet and praise him and tell him "good boy". Bring him back into
the house.

6. After an interval of 30-45 minutes, repeat the procedure. During that 30-45 minutes, play with the puppy,
give him lots of attention then extend the pup's quiet time in the crate to about 30 minutes.

7. While the pup is inside the crate, provide one chew toy. Other items such as blankets or newspapers are
not necessary at this point, Also, any collars or leads should be removed to prevent entanglement. Never
place food or water in his crate!

8. By the time bedtime arrives, the pup has already associated being quiet with being inside the crate.  
Never use the crate as punishment...

OVERNIGHT ELIMINATION

You should be advised that usually after waking the pup will eliminate. If the pup awakens while inside the
crate and needs to eliminate, it will probably whine or bark, since dogs tend to avoid eliminations in their
bedding area (den effect). The pup can then be taken outside to eliminate.

This procedure does have some disadvantages. A young pup should not be placed in its crate for
prolonged periods of time. During the day, the limit should be 2-3 hours at a time. This is because of the
frequent periods of activity that occur throughout early development, as well as frequent elimination
responses. A puppy should not be crated for long periods of time, if you are going to be away from home
for a long period of time, ask someone you trust to take your puppy outside to eliminate at scheduled
intervals. Never leave a older pup for more than 8 hours, he will be cheated of proper exercise and
socialization. As a rule, add one to his age in months to equal the number of hours he can be expected to
be in a crate comfortably with out eliminating. For example, a 2 month old puppy should not be confined for
more than 3 hours.  If you follow the crate training method, your puppy should be housebroken between 4
weeks - 6 months max.   

Heartworm, flea, tick and parasite controls, if needed in your area. You can get these items from your
veterinarian at your first vet visit,   



Helpful Hints


The First Days at Home

The ideal time to bring home a new puppy is when the house is quiet. Discourage friends from stopping by
and don't allow overnight guests. First establish a daily routine and follow these steps:

Step 1: Before bringing him in the house, take him to the area in your yard that will serve as his "bathroom"
and spend a few minutes there. If he goes, praise him. If not, proceed into the house but be sure to take
him to this spot each time he needs to use the bathroom.

Step 2: Take him to the room that accommodates your crate—this restricted area will serve as his new
"den" for several days. Put bedding and chew toys in the crate, leave the door open and line the area
outside of the crate with newspaper, in case of an accident. Let him investigate the crate and the room. If
he chews or urinates on his bedding, permanently remove it from the crate.

Step 3: Observe and interact with your puppy while he's acclimating to his new den. This will help forge a
sense of pack and establish you as the pack leader.

Special Puppy Concerns

Don't treat a puppy as young as 6 to 12-weeks old like an adult dog. Treat him the same way you would
your own infant: with patience, constant supervision and a gentle touch. The way you interact with your
puppy at this age is critical to his socialization. Use these tips:

Don't bring home a puppy while you're on vacation so you can spend a lot of time with him. Instead,
acclimate him to your normal, daily routine.

Supervise your puppy at all times and interact with him regularly.

Be alert for signs (sniffing and circling) that he has to go to the bathroom, then take him outside
immediately.

A young puppy has no bladder control and will need to urinate immediately after eating, drinking, sleeping
or playing. At night, he will need to relieve himself at least every three hours.

Don't punish an accident. Never push his nose in the waste or scold him. He won't understand, and may
learn to go to the bathroom when you're out of sight.

Praise your puppy every time he goes to the bathroom outside.

Feed your puppy a formula designed for puppies. Like a baby, he needs nutritious, highly digestible food.

Meeting Resident Pets

Keep resident pets separated from your new puppy for a few days. After your new puppy is used to his new
den area, put an expandable pet gate in the doorway or put your puppy in his crate. Give your resident pet
access to the area. Let pets smell and touch each other through the crate or pet gate. Do this several
times over the next few days. After that, give the resident pet access to the den area with your new puppy
out of his crate. Supervise their meeting and go back to through-the-gate/crate meetings if trouble arises.

Children and Pets

Ideally, your kids should help you choose your new puppy. When you bring him home, don't let them play
with him constantly. Puppies in particular need a lot of rest just like a growing child. Limit puppy-children
play sessions to 15-30 minute periods 2-3 times a day.

· Young children may be tempted to shout at a puppy if they think he's doing something wrong. Be sure
they understand that puppies and dogs can be easily upset and startled by loud noises.

· No teasing. Keeping a toy just out of reach will reinforce bad habits such as jumping up and excessive
barking.

· Wagging tails and play biting can be too rough for some young children. Supervise interaction and
separate them if the play is too rough.

· Teach kids to care for a dog by showing them how to feed and groom him.


Fencing Options

Keeping your puppy safe in your yard requires good fencing. There are several options to choose from,
and the one you should pick will depend on your puppy's personality, your property and your budget. Here
are some of the options you should consider:

· Privacy fencing. Privacy fences have no openings and provide excellent containment; six-foot-tall panels
cost about $4 to $6 per foot.

· Chain link. Inexpensive chain link works well and is durable; 6-foot-tall, 50-foot rolls cost about $60 each.

· Underground fencing. These electronic systems cannot be seen, jumped over or dug under. Wire is
buried, configured and connected to a transmitter. (The cost runs anywhere from $99 to $1,500.) The dog
wears a special collar that emits warning tones and issues a mild shock as he nears the buried wire.

· Kennels. A covered kennel run, especially one with a concrete floor, will keep your puppy from digging,
climbing or jumping out. Ask your veterinarian or breeder to recommend an appropriate size. (Expect to
spend more than $100 for a small, high-quality kennel.)

Tips for Housetraining Puppies

Housetraining

As with most things in life, there are hard ways and there are easy ways to get things done. Rubbing a
puppy's nose in a mess is an inappropriate way to housetrain. Using ample amounts of supervision and
positive reinforcement is the easy way.

Starting Off On the Right Track

The first course of action in housetraining is to promote the desired behavior. You need to:

· Designate an appropriate elimination area outdoors

· Frequently guide your dog there to do his business

· Heartily praise him when he goes

By occasionally giving a food reward immediately after your dog finishes, you can encourage him to
eliminate in the desired area. The odor left from previous visits to that area will quickly mark it as the place
for the pup to do his business.

Timing Is Important!

A six- to eight-week old puppy should be taken outdoors every one to three hours. Older puppies can
generally wait longer between outings. Most puppies should be taken out:

· After waking in the morning

· After naps

· After meals

· After playing or training

· After being left alone

· Immediately before being put to bed

Eliminating On Command

To avoid spending a lot of time waiting for your puppy to get the job done, you may want to teach him to
eliminate on command. Each time he is in the act of eliminating, simply repeat a unique command, such as
"hurry up" or "potty", in an upbeat tone of voice. After a few weeks of training, you will notice that when you
say the command your puppy will begin pre-elimination sniffing, circling, and then eliminate shortly after
you give the command. Be sure to praise him for his accomplishments.

Feeding Schedules

Most puppies will eliminate within an hour after eating. Once you take control of your puppy's feeding
schedule, you will have some control over when he needs to eliminate.

· Schedule your puppy's dinner times so that you will be available to let him out after eating.

· Avoid giving your puppy a large meal just prior to confining him or he may have to eliminate when you are
not around to take him out. Schedule feeding two to three times daily on a consistent schedule.

· Have food available for only 30 to 40 minutes, then remove it.

· The last feeding of the day should be completed several hours before he is confined for the night. By
controlling the feeding schedule, exercise sessions, confinement periods, and trips outdoors to the
elimination area, your puppy will quickly develop a reliable schedule for eliminating.

Expect Some Mistakes

Left on his own, the untrained puppy is very likely to make a mistake. Close supervision is a very important
part of training. Do not consider your puppy housetrained until he has gone at least four consecutive
weeks without eliminating in the house. For older dogs, this period should be even longer. Until then:

· Your puppy should constantly be within eyesight.

· Baby gates can be helpful to control movement throughout the house and to aid supervision.

· Keep them in the crate when unsupervised.

When you are away from home, sleeping, or if you are just too busy to closely monitor your pet's activities,
confine him to a small, safe area in the home.

Nervous Wetting

If your puppy squats and urinates when he greets you, he may have a problem called submissive urination.
Dogs and puppies that urinate during greetings are very sensitive and should never be scolded when they
do this, since punishment inevitably makes the problem worse.

Most young puppies will grow out of this behavior if you are calm, quiet, and avoid reaching toward the
head during greetings. Another helpful approach is to calmly ask your dog to sit for a very tasty treat each
time someone greets him.

Direct Him Away from Problem Areas

Urine and fecal odor should be thoroughly removed to keep your dog from returning to areas of the home
where he made a mess.

· Be sure to use a good commercial product manufactured specifically to clean up doggy odors. Follow the
manufacturer's recommendations for usage.

· If a carpeted area has been soaked with urine, be sure to saturate it with the clean up product and not
merely spray the surface.

· Rooms in the home where your dog has had frequent mistakes should be closed off for several months.
He should only be allowed to enter when accompanied by a family member.

Don't Make Things Worse

It is a rare dog or puppy that can be housetrained without making an occasional mess, so you need to be
ready to handle the inevitable problems.
· Do not rely on harsh punishment to correct mistakes. This approach usually does not work, and may
actually delay training.

· An appropriate correction consists of simply providing a moderate, startling distraction. You should only
do this when you see your dog in the act of eliminating in the wrong place.

· A sharp noise, such as a loud "No" or a quick stomp on the floor, is all that is usually needed to stop the
behavior. Just do not be too loud or your pet may learn to avoid eliminating in front of you, even outdoors.

Practice Patience

Do not continue to scold or correct your dog after he has stopped soiling. When he stops, quickly take him
outdoors so that he will finish in the appropriate area and be praised.
Never rub your dog's nose in a mess. There is absolutely no way this will help training, and may actually
make him afraid of you.

Success!

The basic principles of housetraining are pretty simple, but a fair amount of patience is required. The most
challenging part is always keeping an eye on your active dog or puppy. If you maintain control, take your
dog outdoors frequently, and consistently praise the desirable behavior, soon you should have a house
trained canine companion.

Crate Training

Training a puppy to be comfortable in a crate is a popular way to provide safe confinement during
housetraining. The majority of puppies will rapidly accept crate confinement when you make the
introduction fun. Since it is important to associate favorable things with the area where your puppy is
confined, it is a good idea to play with him there, or simply spend some time reading or watching television
nearby as he relaxes with a favorite chew toy. If he is only in the area when you leave, it becomes a social
isolation area that he eventually may resist entering. good time to start crate training is at dinner time.
Feed your puppy his dinner, one piece at a time, by tossing pieces of kibble into the crate for him to chase
and eat. This way, you can make a game out of training.

When you pick up his toys, store them in the crate so he will enter on his own to play. You may even want
to occasionally hide a biscuit in the crate as a nice surprise.
You should not use the crate for periods that exceed the length of time the pet can actually control the
urge to urinate or defecate. If you are gone for long periods each day, you will need to provide a larger
confinement area. You may want to consider using an exercise pen or small room.

Provide an area large enough so that if your puppy has to eliminate when you are gone, he can do it in a
space that is separate from his sleeping area. A 15- to 30-square foot area is adequate for most puppies.
If he chooses a specific place to eliminate, cover it with paper to make clean up easier.

 

Use the information in this section to prepare your home and family for life with your new puppy.
Before you bring your puppy home, be sure you have the following supplies:

Puppy Food
Premium pet food should be fed to get your new puppy off to a good start. We use Kirkland Chicken n Rice
puppy food.  We will be giving you a sample pack to take home with you on the day you arrive to pick up
your puppy. If we are shipping the puppy to you, then a sample will be attached to the dog crate. Feed
puppy a 1/2-3/4 of a cup of puppy food 3x a day.  At 3 months old increase food to 1 cup 3x a day. Then at
5 months old, the noon feeding can be eliminated and feed him 2x a day. At 6 months old your pup can
now be put on Adult dog food, introduce gradually..  At 1 year old, feed your dog approx. 4 cups per day.

Supplements
NuVet Plus (multiple vitamin) and NuJoint Plus (joint aid). You can visit their web site at: www.nuvet.com or
call 800-474-7044 to learn more about these products, but you will need to use our order code # when
ordering, thank you!

Collar
We recommend a lightweight adjustable nylon collar to 16 inches. Please make sure you can always fit 2
fingers underneath the collar.

Leash
We recommend a 6 foot leash.  You'll want to get puppy use to walking on a leash as soon as possible,
however avoid public places like parks and hiking trails where other dogs walk until puppy is fully
vaccinated. After your pup has been vaccinated introduce your puppy to different environments. Have him
interact with a wide variety of family members, friends and even strangers. Take him for walks, rides in the
car, family outings such as picnics, little league games, etc... For your puppies safety and to be a
responsible pet owner, always obey the leash laws.

Retractable Leashes
These give your puppy a feeling of freedom.

Identification Tag
These attach to the collar. Information included is puppy's name, your name, address and phone number.
If puppy gets lost it will be at lot easier to find him. Your veterinarian's name and phone number is also a
good idea.  These can be purchased at most pet stores or veterinarian clinics.

Crate/Kennel
We recommend the hard plastic kennels such as Vari Kennel or Bargain Hound.  They make clean up
easy.  The crate should be ready when you bring home your new puppy.  We recommend  a crate for large
breeds (36"L.x24"W.x27"H.)  You may need to purchase two kennels...one that fits your pup now, and the
larger kennel as sized above when they reach adulthood. If you have shipped your puppy, you will receive
a smaller puppy crate.  A home and travel crate that's airline approved and will accommodate your puppy's
size for the first few weeks. It will also  serve as your puppy's new "den" at home, when traveling or riding to
the veterinarian's office. His scent in the crate will provide comfort and a sense of security during these
stressful times. As and alternative if you decide to use a metal crate with a metal bottom, we've heard
excellent feedback from the kennel with the divider panel that is moved as your puppy grows.  We do not
recommend any fancy bedding for inside the crate. We use shredded paper for the first couple of weeks
for ease of cleaning.  As your puppy grows accustomed to their kennel and develops the ability to sleep
through the night, you may consider changing his bedding to soft towels and pillows.

Reading Material:


Stain remover
For removal of accidental soiling. We highly recommend "Nature's Miracle Stain & Odor Remover". There is
nothing that works as well as this product, do not buy any imitations it will not work as well.  

Treats
Don't forget treats for training and rewarding your pup. You will need a few boxes.  Also, treats, boiled
chicken livers are "very" nutritious, inexpensive, and make a great "all natural" treat.  Bil_jac also makes a
great livers treat.  It comes in a little carton.


Toys
Puppies chew usually due to teething, boredom or stress. It should be discouraged immediately before it
develops into a problem. For teething we recommend a few chew toys like Durable Nylabones and Kong
toys. Kongs are highly recommended because you can also stuff the inside with Peanut Butter and freeze it
for hours of fun. Tossing and Retrieving toys, like tennis balls and disc's. As a rule if your puppy can fit the
whole toy in his mouth, the toy is too small and could be unsafe. No sponge toys or toys with squeakers,
whistles or other attached parts that can break off. No tug toys since they can cause aggressive behavior.
No shoes or clothing, because the puppy will not be able to distinguish which shoes or clothing are allowed
and which ones are not. No rawhides, pig ears, or toys with strings etc.. Inspect toys regularly.

Water Bowl/Food Bowl
We recommend stainless steel double bowls in a stand holder, so puppies can't knock them over.
Adjustable ones are a good choice, as your pup grows they can be raised. Wash bowls daily.

Grooming
Brushes and combs suited to your puppy's coat; we recommend buying a Slicker Brush, Pin Brush & a
Boar, Bristle Brush, Dematting Comb, Nail Clippers, Kwik Stop (kwik stop prevents nails from bleeding if cut
too short)., tearless puppy shampoo, toothbrush, paste, and ear cleaner.  We recommend getting puppy
use to being groomed as soon as possible, even if he/she doesn't need it. This way when he/she does
need it, he/she will be use to the brush.

Grooming Basics

Your dog's health and happiness are dependent upon a well cared for coat, ears, mouth and nails.

Show dogs and those with special grooming problems (severely matted hair, hard to groom ears and
infected gums, to name a few) need the attention and skills of a veterinarian or professional groomer. But
you easily can give your dog routine every-day care at home.

Regular brushing helps eliminate tangles and mats and helps your dog get accustomed to being handled.
It also gives you the opportunity to check for ticks and fleas, lesions, lumps and changes in his skin and
coat. Pet-supply stores and catalogs sell a wide array of brushes for different coats and conditions.

Slicker brushes have a bed of fine, closely spaced wires that usually are hooked or bent; they're good all-
purpose brushes for removing mats, loose hair and debris.

Pin brushes have a bed of widely spaced tines that look like straight pins. The tines sometimes are tipped
with plastic. Pin brushes are also good for removing tangles but can be uncomfortable for grooming short
haired dogs.

Bristle brushes and metal combs are used in the final grooming step for long haired dogs, leaving their hair
sleek, smooth and shiny. A bristle brush may be the only brush you'll need for a short haired dog.

Begin the brushing process with a slicker or pin brush to remove dead hair, debris and tangles. For breeds
with long and very thick coats, you should groom with both brushes, using the slicker brush first.

For tough tangles, gently comb or brush small sections at a time, giving yourself and your dog a break
every few minutes. Be careful not to tug at or tear the hair.

After the coat is smooth, give your dog a final brushing with a bristle brush (for short haired dogs) or a
comb (for long haired dogs). Give plenty of praise during the brushing process and reward your dog with a
treat when you're finished.

Bath time is much easier after a thorough brushing. Place your dog in a tub or a basin with a nonskid
surface. Hold your dog's collar firmly, then slowly pour several pitchers of lukewarm water over his body,
being careful to leave the head dry.

Soap your dog's body with a dog shampoo, then massage the soap into a lather, talking to your dog and
praising him as you work. When his body is lathered, move to his head, being careful to keep shampoo out
of his eyes, ears and mouth.

Rinse and dry your dog's head, then rinse his body. When the water runs clear, rinse one more time.

Thoroughly dry your dog with towels. If your dog has healthy skin, you can dry him further with a hair dryer
set on low or warm temperature.

Bathe smaller dogs such as bichons every two or three weeks, except in the winter when once a month
probably will do. Larger pets need bathing several times a year. Of course, always wash a pet when it is
dirty or smells, regardless of when it was last bathed.

Proper foot care will help prevent unnecessary pain and infection later on. Most dogs don't like to have
their feet handled, so go slowly, one paw at a time  Make foot handling a part of playtime.

Remove mats of hair from between the toes and pads of dogs with hairy feet; if ignored, the mats can
become as hard as rocks. Then, using scissors, trim the hair between the pads and between the toes so it
is level with the dog's foot.

Regular exercise on a hard surface may keep a dog's nails worn down. However, most domestic dogs will
need to have their nails clipped every few weeks. If your dog has dewclaws (the smaller claw on the back of
each leg, higher than the paws), those always will need clipping. If the nails or dewclaws are allowed to
grow, they may curl inward into the skin and cause a painful infection.

Use nail clippers designed specifically for dogs. One type, known as the guillotine style, has a round
opening for the dog's nail and a blade that slides across to clip the nail. Another type works like a pair of
scissors. This type puts less pressure on the nail and is more comfortable for the dog. Make sure the
blades are sharp.

Trim only the "hook" end of the nail. Clipping a nail to short can be painful and may cause bleeding.
Frequent trimming of a small amount of nail always is better than waiting until the nail is long. Never trim
into the quick -- the live portion of the nail.

Ear care generally is the easiest grooming task. Unless your dog has ear problems or spends time hunting
and swimming, ear cleaning needs to be done only every few weeks.

Clean the outermost area of your dog's ears with a cotton ball or cotton swab dampened with water or baby
oil. To clean further inside the ears and soften and remove wax, use an ear-cleaning solution.

Warm the bottle of solution between your palms, then squirt the prescribed amount into your dog's ear
canal. Gently massage the base of his ear. Remove any dirt or wax with a dry cotton ball.


Puppy proof your home
Confine your puppy to a safe area inside and keep doors and windows closed. He should be supervised at
all times. Keep puppy off balconies, upper porches, and high decks. You may want to purchase a baby/pet
gate. Remove potential hazards.

Keep breakable objects out of reach.

Deny access to electrical cords by hiding or covering them; make outlets safe with plastic outlet plugs.

Safely store household chemicals.

Keep the following house and garden plants out of reach: poinsettias, azaleas, rhododendrons, dumb
cane, Japanese yew, oleander and English ivy among others.

In the garage, be sure engine lubricants and other poisonous chemicals (especially antifreeze) are safely
stored.

If you own a pool or hot tub, check the cover or the surrounding fence to be sure they're in good condition.

If you provide your puppy with an outdoor kennel, place it in an area that provides sun and shelter in the
pen; be sure the kennel is large enough to comfortably accommodate your puppy's adult size.

This is a list of some of the potential hazards to your puppy, cleaning supplies, detergent, bleach, paint
and paint thinner,  antifreeze and chocolate.  Some common plants are aloe vera, amaryllis, apple (seeds),
avocado (fruit & pit), azalea,  baby's breath, bleeding hearts, caladium, carnation, cherry (seeds & wilting
leaves), chrysanthemum,  clematis, corn plant, daffodil, daphne, daisy, day lily, dieffenbachia (dumb cane),
English ivy, foxglove, geranium,  holly, hosta, hyacinth,  iris, ivy, jade, lily of the valley, macadamia nut,
marijuana, mistletoe, morning glory, narcissus, oleander, onion, peach (wilting leaves & pits),  
philodendron, plum (wilting leaves & seeds),  poinsettia, poison ivy. poison oak, potato, rhododendron,
rubber plant, tobacco, tomato plant (green fruit, stem & leaves), tulip, wandering jew, weeping fig, yew, and
yucca.


Scoopers
We recommend aluminum scoops with a spade for quick and easy clean up.  And maybe an empty paint
can, or small trash can, that you can carry around the yard to put the poop into. They also sell small septic
tanks for dog poop for $30, you can find them in the Foster and Smith catalog 1-800-826-7206 (order a
catalog they are free and have lots of neat stuff) or on line at: www.DrsFosterSmith.com . In the catalog
you can find puppy gates, exercise pens, chain link portable dog runs, and just about everything you can
think of! Another catalog we like to use is www.revivalanimal.com or 1-800-786-4751.


Crate Training your Pup
One of the most useful devices for housebreaking a puppy, and perhaps one of the most misunderstood,
is crate training your pup. Properly used, crate training can aid in housebreaking puppies. It can also be
used for your own puppies safety and to save your home from costly damages. People who raise, train,
and show dogs have been aware of the benefits of crates for years. Unfortunately, the new pet owner is
not as well-informed.

I Advise owners of the new puppies to concentrate on housetraining, socialization, and crate-training
during the early weeks of rearing.

Separation Reflux
For the first night or two don't be surprised if the puppy whimpers or cries at bedtime. Remember he has
just been taken from his mother and litter mates. When separated from their social group, most pups
whine, bark, or howl. These sounds are referred to as distress vocalization. In the wild, these sounds
increase the chances that a puppy will be reunited with his pack. The pups movement is restricted while it
is isolated, it will respond with escape behaviors such as digging, thrashing about, and chewing. These
behaviors have obvious benefits for survival.

RECOMMENDED PROCEDURE

The procedure we use and recommend for inhibiting the separation reflex is based upon several other
canine tendencies. These are the pup's preference to bed down with, or in the presence of, others; to bed
down in a sheltered, den-like atmosphere; and to learn through association. These procedures we
recommend as follows:

1. Acquire a collapsible dog crate. The crate should be large enough for the puppy to stand up in and
move around  in, (remember puppies grow quickly, so I recommend a large crate, with a divider or cut off
baby gate in it to make it seem smaller).

2. Well before bedtime introduce the pup to the crate by placing several treats (like puppy food) directly in
front of the door and inside the crate. Give a command word like "kennel" or "crate". Let the puppy walk in,
then back out of it, just to get him use to it at first. Then repeat this step again but this time close the door.

3. Leave the room, but remain just outside in order to audit the pup's behavior.

4. At the first indication of any separation responses, intervene with a sharply raised voice. The idea is that
the pup associate its behavior with the startling outcome the behavior produced. Some pups will not
respond to a raised voice. We have found that most respond well to sounds generated by a shaker can (a
small coffee can containing several coins).

5. Usually the pup settles quietly in the crate after three to eight attempts at emotional responses, if they
are followed by a startling sound. After the pup is quiet, keep him inside the crate for about ten minutes.
Then let the puppy out of the crate, pet and praise him. Take the puppy directly outside to eliminate, bring
the pup to the same spot each time. Give him a command word "potty", "go pee-pee" something to that
effect. After he has gone to the bathroom, pet and praise him and tell him "good boy". Bring him back into
the house.

6. After an interval of 30-45 minutes, repeat the procedure. During that 30-45 minutes, play with the puppy,
give him lots of attention then extend the pup's quiet time in the crate to about 30 minutes.

7. While the pup is inside the crate, provide one chew toy. Other items such as blankets or newspapers are
not necessary at this point, Also, any collars or leads should be removed to prevent entanglement. Never
place food or water in his crate!

8. By the time bedtime arrives, the pup has already associated being quiet with being inside the crate.  
Never use the crate as punishment...

OVERNIGHT ELIMINATION

You should be advised that usually after waking the pup will eliminate. If the pup awakens while inside the
crate and needs to eliminate, it will probably whine or bark, since dogs tend to avoid eliminations in their
bedding area (den effect). The pup can then be taken outside to eliminate.

This procedure does have some disadvantages. A young pup should not be placed in its crate for
prolonged periods of time. During the day, the limit should be 2-3 hours at a time. This is because of the
frequent periods of activity that occur throughout early development, as well as frequent elimination
responses. A puppy should not be crated for long periods of time, if you are going to be away from home
for a long period of time, ask someone you trust to take your puppy outside to eliminate at scheduled
intervals. Never leave a older pup for more than 8 hours, he will be cheated of proper exercise and
socialization. As a rule, add one to his age in months to equal the number of hours he can be expected to
be in a crate comfortably with out eliminating. For example, a 2 month old puppy should not be confined for
more than 3 hours.  If you follow the crate training method, your puppy should be housebroken between 4
weeks - 6 months max.   

Heartworm, flea, tick and parasite controls, if needed in your area. You can get these items from your
veterinarian at your first vet visit,   



Helpful Hints


The First Days at Home

The ideal time to bring home a new puppy is when the house is quiet. Discourage friends from stopping by
and don't allow overnight guests. First establish a daily routine and follow these steps:

Step 1: Before bringing him in the house, take him to the area in your yard that will serve as his "bathroom"
and spend a few minutes there. If he goes, praise him. If not, proceed into the house but be sure to take
him to this spot each time he needs to use the bathroom.

Step 2: Take him to the room that accommodates your crate—this restricted area will serve as his new
"den" for several days. Put bedding and chew toys in the crate, leave the door open and line the area
outside of the crate with newspaper, in case of an accident. Let him investigate the crate and the room. If
he chews or urinates on his bedding, permanently remove it from the crate.

Step 3: Observe and interact with your puppy while he's acclimating to his new den. This will help forge a
sense of pack and establish you as the pack leader.

Special Puppy Concerns

Don't treat a puppy as young as 6 to 12-weeks old like an adult dog. Treat him the same way you would
your own infant: with patience, constant supervision and a gentle touch. The way you interact with your
puppy at this age is critical to his socialization. Use these tips:

Don't bring home a puppy while you're on vacation so you can spend a lot of time with him. Instead,
acclimate him to your normal, daily routine.

Supervise your puppy at all times and interact with him regularly.

Be alert for signs (sniffing and circling) that he has to go to the bathroom, then take him outside
immediately.

A young puppy has no bladder control and will need to urinate immediately after eating, drinking, sleeping
or playing. At night, he will need to relieve himself at least every three hours.

Don't punish an accident. Never push his nose in the waste or scold him. He won't understand, and may
learn to go to the bathroom when you're out of sight.

Praise your puppy every time he goes to the bathroom outside.

Feed your puppy a formula designed for puppies. Like a baby, he needs nutritious, highly digestible food.

Meeting Resident Pets

Keep resident pets separated from your new puppy for a few days. After your new puppy is used to his new
den area, put an expandable pet gate in the doorway or put your puppy in his crate. Give your resident pet
access to the area. Let pets smell and touch each other through the crate or pet gate. Do this several
times over the next few days. After that, give the resident pet access to the den area with your new puppy
out of his crate. Supervise their meeting and go back to through-the-gate/crate meetings if trouble arises.

Children and Pets

Ideally, your kids should help you choose your new puppy. When you bring him home, don't let them play
with him constantly. Puppies in particular need a lot of rest just like a growing child. Limit puppy-children
play sessions to 15-30 minute periods 2-3 times a day.

· Young children may be tempted to shout at a puppy if they think he's doing something wrong. Be sure
they understand that puppies and dogs can be easily upset and startled by loud noises.

· No teasing. Keeping a toy just out of reach will reinforce bad habits such as jumping up and excessive
barking.

· Wagging tails and play biting can be too rough for some young children. Supervise interaction and
separate them if the play is too rough.

· Teach kids to care for a dog by showing them how to feed and groom him.


Fencing Options

Keeping your puppy safe in your yard requires good fencing. There are several options to choose from,
and the one you should pick will depend on your puppy's personality, your property and your budget. Here
are some of the options you should consider:

· Privacy fencing. Privacy fences have no openings and provide excellent containment; six-foot-tall panels
cost about $4 to $6 per foot.

· Chain link. Inexpensive chain link works well and is durable; 6-foot-tall, 50-foot rolls cost about $60 each.

· Underground fencing. These electronic systems cannot be seen, jumped over or dug under. Wire is
buried, configured and connected to a transmitter. (The cost runs anywhere from $99 to $1,500.) The dog
wears a special collar that emits warning tones and issues a mild shock as he nears the buried wire.

· Kennels. A covered kennel run, especially one with a concrete floor, will keep your puppy from digging,
climbing or jumping out. Ask your veterinarian or breeder to recommend an appropriate size. (Expect to
spend more than $100 for a small, high-quality kennel.)

Tips for Housetraining Puppies

Housetraining

As with most things in life, there are hard ways and there are easy ways to get things done. Rubbing a
puppy's nose in a mess is an inappropriate way to housetrain. Using ample amounts of supervision and
positive reinforcement is the easy way.

Starting Off On the Right Track

The first course of action in housetraining is to promote the desired behavior. You need to:

· Designate an appropriate elimination area outdoors

· Frequently guide your dog there to do his business

· Heartily praise him when he goes

By occasionally giving a food reward immediately after your dog finishes, you can encourage him to
eliminate in the desired area. The odor left from previous visits to that area will quickly mark it as the place
for the pup to do his business.

Timing Is Important!

A six- to eight-week old puppy should be taken outdoors every one to three hours. Older puppies can
generally wait longer between outings. Most puppies should be taken out:

· After waking in the morning

· After naps

· After meals

· After playing or training

· After being left alone

· Immediately before being put to bed

Eliminating On Command

To avoid spending a lot of time waiting for your puppy to get the job done, you may want to teach him to
eliminate on command. Each time he is in the act of eliminating, simply repeat a unique command, such as
"hurry up" or "potty", in an upbeat tone of voice. After a few weeks of training, you will notice that when you
say the command your puppy will begin pre-elimination sniffing, circling, and then eliminate shortly after
you give the command. Be sure to praise him for his accomplishments.

Feeding Schedules

Most puppies will eliminate within an hour after eating. Once you take control of your puppy's feeding
schedule, you will have some control over when he needs to eliminate.

· Schedule your puppy's dinner times so that you will be available to let him out after eating.

· Avoid giving your puppy a large meal just prior to confining him or he may have to eliminate when you are
not around to take him out. Schedule feeding two to three times daily on a consistent schedule.

· Have food available for only 30 to 40 minutes, then remove it.

· The last feeding of the day should be completed several hours before he is confined for the night. By
controlling the feeding schedule, exercise sessions, confinement periods, and trips outdoors to the
elimination area, your puppy will quickly develop a reliable schedule for eliminating.

Expect Some Mistakes

Left on his own, the untrained puppy is very likely to make a mistake. Close supervision is a very important
part of training. Do not consider your puppy housetrained until he has gone at least four consecutive
weeks without eliminating in the house. For older dogs, this period should be even longer. Until then:

· Your puppy should constantly be within eyesight.

· Baby gates can be helpful to control movement throughout the house and to aid supervision.

· Keep them in the crate when unsupervised.

When you are away from home, sleeping, or if you are just too busy to closely monitor your pet's activities,
confine him to a small, safe area in the home.

Nervous Wetting

If your puppy squats and urinates when he greets you, he may have a problem called submissive urination.
Dogs and puppies that urinate during greetings are very sensitive and should never be scolded when they
do this, since punishment inevitably makes the problem worse.

Most young puppies will grow out of this behavior if you are calm, quiet, and avoid reaching toward the
head during greetings. Another helpful approach is to calmly ask your dog to sit for a very tasty treat each
time someone greets him.

Direct Him Away from Problem Areas

Urine and fecal odor should be thoroughly removed to keep your dog from returning to areas of the home
where he made a mess.

· Be sure to use a good commercial product manufactured specifically to clean up doggy odors. Follow the
manufacturer's recommendations for usage.

· If a carpeted area has been soaked with urine, be sure to saturate it with the clean up product and not
merely spray the surface.

· Rooms in the home where your dog has had frequent mistakes should be closed off for several months.
He should only be allowed to enter when accompanied by a family member.

Don't Make Things Worse

It is a rare dog or puppy that can be housetrained without making an occasional mess, so you need to be
ready to handle the inevitable problems.
· Do not rely on harsh punishment to correct mistakes. This approach usually does not work, and may
actually delay training.

· An appropriate correction consists of simply providing a moderate, startling distraction. You should only
do this when you see your dog in the act of eliminating in the wrong place.

· A sharp noise, such as a loud "No" or a quick stomp on the floor, is all that is usually needed to stop the
behavior. Just do not be too loud or your pet may learn to avoid eliminating in front of you, even outdoors.

Practice Patience

Do not continue to scold or correct your dog after he has stopped soiling. When he stops, quickly take him
outdoors so that he will finish in the appropriate area and be praised.
Never rub your dog's nose in a mess. There is absolutely no way this will help training, and may actually
make him afraid of you.

Success!

The basic principles of housetraining are pretty simple, but a fair amount of patience is required. The most
challenging part is always keeping an eye on your active dog or puppy. If you maintain control, take your
dog outdoors frequently, and consistently praise the desirable behavior, soon you should have a house
trained canine companion.

Crate Training

Training a puppy to be comfortable in a crate is a popular way to provide safe confinement during
housetraining. The majority of puppies will rapidly accept crate confinement when you make the
introduction fun. Since it is important to associate favorable things with the area where your puppy is
confined, it is a good idea to play with him there, or simply spend some time reading or watching television
nearby as he relaxes with a favorite chew toy. If he is only in the area when you leave, it becomes a social
isolation area that he eventually may resist entering. good time to start crate training is at dinner time.
Feed your puppy his dinner, one piece at a time, by tossing pieces of kibble into the crate for him to chase
and eat. This way, you can make a game out of training.

When you pick up his toys, store them in the crate so he will enter on his own to play. You may even want
to occasionally hide a biscuit in the crate as a nice surprise.
You should not use the crate for periods that exceed the length of time the pet can actually control the
urge to urinate or defecate. If you are gone for long periods each day, you will need to provide a larger
confinement area. You may want to consider using an exercise pen or small room.

Provide an area large enough so that if your puppy has to eliminate when you are gone, he can do it in a
space that is separate from his sleeping area. A 15- to 30-square foot area is adequate for most puppies.
If he chooses a specific place to eliminate, cover it with paper to make clean up easier.